From the airport, head for the taxi counter outside customs, near the left-luggage desk. If you want to take a bemo, you have to walk out to the right on the airport main road as far as the impressive white charioteer statue on the corner. Froill there you can flag down a blue bemo van to Kuta. It will take you down to “bemo korner” in Kuta.

In Kuta itself, the usual bemo fare-to JI Kartika Plaza and Tuban to the south, or to Jl Pantai, Jl Melasti and , Jl Legian to the north, although the driver may well ask for more. There are no bemos beyond Legian. So to get further north you’ll have to charter: bargain hard.

There are rent-a-car and bike agencies on almost every corner in Kuta, and “transport?” is an extremely common touts’ call along J1 Pantai Kuta. Bargain the price down and check the condition of the vehicle. Suzuki Jinnys, Kijang jeeps. Try Bali Bahagia Rent Car, Jl. Raya Kuta 72X 751954; Toyota Rent Car, Jl Raya Airport 99X, Tuban, Kuta, 751356. The shuttle bus to the Kuta Central Parking area on Jl. Kuta Raya. It makes a circuit through Kuta, where curb-side parking is no longer allowed, so you must park at the central lot and shuttle in.

If you want to avoid the hassle of looking for bemos or renting a vehicle, use the shuttle buses which go to Ubud at 8.30, 10, and 11.30 am, 1, 2.30, and 4 pm and to Candidasa/Padangbai, Kintamani and I,ovina at 9.00 am. Contact CV Ganda Sari Transport. Jl Legian, 751551; Perama, Jl Legian, Kuta, 751170; or Nomad Restaurant in Ubud.

For renting mountain bikes, motor bikes or push bikes, go to Chi Chat Rent Car on Jl Pura Bagus Taruna (Jl. Rum Jungle) or to Warung Bamboo, 752192, on J1. Arjuna (J1. Double Six). Always check the bike before riding away.